Air Compressor Tap 

All Range Rovers since 1995 have Electronic Air Suspension (EAS). The EAS system allows the truck to move up and down through a range of approximately 135mm (5.3 inches). These settings increase or decrease height and ground clearance of the vehicle, and provide automatic leveling to accomodate vehicle loading. 
The system is controlled by a computer that receives information from height sensors at each corner. The computer uses electric air valves to adjust the vehicle height at each corner to maintain level, and raise or lower the truck based on driver input. In addition to the on-board compressor, the vehicle has a 10-liter (2.5 US gallon) air tank mounted on the frame rail. 
Having on-board air is very handy when you're running out in the woods, and you need to air up your tires when you return to pavement. Most vehicles need to add a compressor and air tank; this is standard equipment on the Range Rover. 
Many people are intimidated by the EAS system, especially Land Rover Dealers. The system is not really that complicated; by studying the information in RAVE, and discussing the system with other owners on John Brabyn's Range Rover web site, as well as reading the information available on, I was able to build an inexpensive connection port for the system. 
Here is the kit of parts 
3 feet of 6mm OD air line 
1 T fitting 
2 screws with washers & nuts 
1 panel, with a bulkhead fitting on the right side, a pressure gauge, and a standard quick-release air line fitting
Start by mounting the panel under the bonnet, on the radiator support. This will require drilling 2 holes in your truck. The screws are 1/4". Use the panel as a guide to mark the holes before you drill. Remember to move the bonnet release cables out of the way before you start drilling. 
I mounted the panel in front of the air filter box.
Next, route the air line around the outside of the air filter box back toward the side of the EAS valve block where the other air lines are connected.  
Be careful not to kink the air line.  
Gently insert the end of the air line into the connector on the side of the panel, pressing it firmly until it stops. The air line will go into the connector about 1/2".  
Holding the T fitting so the stub points to the right, insert the air line to the panel into the bottom of the T. 
The next step involves depressurizing the air tank on the truck. 
The air tank can contain pressure up to 150psi!  
Wear eye protection and pay attention to what you're doing. 
Locate air line # 6, near the front of the EAS valve block. 
Using a flat blade screwdriver, gently depress the collet around the number 6 air line. As you press the collet, you will be able to gently pull the air line out of the valve body.  
When you remove this line from the valve body, the air tank will depressurize through the open end of the line. This is when eye protection is a good idea. 
Working quickly, insert the stub end into the fitting in the valve block, pressing it in until it stops. Reconnect the number 6 air line into the open end of the T fitting. 
When you're done, the number 6 air line should look like this.
Listen for air leaks. If the lines are not properly inserted into the fittings you will hear the air hissing out. If the tank did not completely empty while you were working on the number 6 air line, the pressure gauge will show tank pressure. 
Start up the truck so the compressor can fill the air tank. 
The gauge will show tank pressure. My compressor shut off when the gauge indicated about 140psi.
You can now connect any standard air line to the fitting. I have a 25-foot coiled air line with a quick-disconnect connector. I can connect a tire inflation fitting, or any other fitting I need to inflate air mattresses, pool toys, or whatever. 
This is NOT suitable for air tools. Remember, the duty cycle of the compressor is only about 15%.  
Modifying your truck can be dangerous, and may void your warranty.  
If you are at all unsure of your ability to complete this modification without injuring yourself or others, don't do it. 

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